It's a perfect wave when small and the most beautiful and scary wave on Earth when it's big, as the swell from deep water hits the shallow reef ledge. A ten-foot high wave and a 30-footer break in the same depth of water.
タグ: deep, water, most-beautiful, beautiful

"Kelly Slater"の他の名言

I surf more now for other people than myself. I feel a lot of support from people wanting me to do well, and I feed off that. I can send a positive message to people from what I do.
タグ: people, me, myself, positive
A wave isn't like a skate ramp or mountain; everything's moving around and you have to time how to move along with it. That's easier with a slow wave.
タグ: moving, mountain, time, you
For a surfer, it's never-ending. There's always some wave you want to surf.
タグ: some, want, always, you
My belief is that 'heaven' and 'hell' are metaphorical terms for what you make of your life. In any instant, you have the ability to make your life total pleasure or total hell.
タグ: heaven, hell, you, life
I feel like an ambassador for surfing at this point. I'm happy to go and play that role and share that where I can in certain areas of the mainstream media that doesn't get the surfing attention.
タグ: attention, feel, go, happy
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